Thanks for the update Sean!
The pommel looks much "higher-end!" I'd hunted down this thread last week to see if you'd posted any progress and was glad to see the thread had resurfaced.
In answering Luke's question so thoroughly, you answered mine as well, which was: "What do you use to carve into the steel?" I really appreciate how you answer every single question with so much care and consideration.
In general, I think it's amazing how much difference the right finish makes on a sword. After finding out about Scotchbrite pads on this forum, I tracked some down and now my humble MRL classic medieval absolutely glows instead of just throwing off light like a 3D mirror. Without that level of texture, steel just doesn't look like steel to me. Just one of the many things I've learned here over the past few months.
Can't wait to see more!
Hi Sean,
I am very impressed by your way of working. Gold's border is fantastic. :eek:
You know why? Create a style, a style that is yours.
Thank you for your up-dates.
Maurizio
I am very impressed by your way of working. Gold's border is fantastic. :eek:
You know why? Create a style, a style that is yours.
Thank you for your up-dates.
Maurizio
I now have a new option for this project. How about an XVIIIc? Broad blade, wheel pommel and horizontally recurved, ribbon-like cross. We don't see many of these swords. Peter Johnsson made a beautiful example several years ago (see this thread: http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t...t=solingen ). Mine would have a similar pommel but with the cross Oakeshott believes was more common (ca. 1500). My only question concerns the grip. I really like the lines of my most recent bastard sword grip (like that of Peter's XVIIIc) but Oakeshott believed a "sharp swelling" off-center toward the cross was more common. I guess I'll try the components together and see what looks and feels best.
I know the cross will work but I haven't handled the wheel pommel yet. It might be too small. I doubt it would be too light, though.
I know the cross will work but I haven't handled the wheel pommel yet. It might be too small. I doubt it would be too light, though.
Another interesting hilt possibility (ca. 1508):
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I think this project is finally about to take off. I've had to rule out XVIIIc but I still have a few different choices in cross and pommel. When my last pommel idea arrives this week, I'll make my final decision about at least one of these projects. At the moment, I'm leaning toward south Austrian ca. 1520--hand-and-a-half, recurved ribbon cross (Oakeshott Style 12) and spherical (Type R) pommel, very long tapered grip with tubular chappe, blued furniture. In short--certain (not all) elements of the swords shown below plus a few others combined:
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Something like this. Something I'd expect Saint Catherine to be holding in an Austrian painting of ca. 1520.
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Progress! I tried out the writhen pommel with a recurved ribbon cross and immediately knew that this would be the first project. This combination appears to have been common in the period. At this stage I've roughed out the grip and further refined the pommel (MUCH narrower at its base, as was typically the case, historically). If the grip looks slightly undersized at this stage, keep in mind that it will be covered with cord and leather. I have a small amount of refining to do on the core to get things symmetrical and crisp. I know from an earlier experiment that facets are unforgiving. It's hard to judge the bare core but asymmetry and misalignment shows clearly once the piece is wrapped. The cord binding will mitigate some of that, though.
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Just noticed that this sword is today's Deal of the Day at MRL again. $132!
I finished the main part of the grip this weekend. The shapeless flaps at the base of the grip will be trimmed, rounded and sewn to the chappe. I have to make the scabbard first, though, so the chappe will fit properly.
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