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Hello to all.

My last Sword was a coldsteel Scottish Broadsword wich i bought last year around may.
a nice looking Sword and i like the blade of it , it felt bladeheavy when i first held it but i was thinking then it's something i would get used too quickly... i did Not !
with absolutely no Brand-bashing intended but for me this Sword handels like a Crowbar and i'm not able to do any serious backyard-cutting for more than 10minutes with it in fear of cutting myself.

right now, to become happy with the Sword again i'm designing a complete new grip and cross-gard for the blade in order to get some balance and turn the Sword into a one and a half hander, i think this blade demands it.
the baskethilt i tossed into a corner weeks ago.

when i'm completely finished i will post photo's. :lol:

bye and happy Sword play.

luuk.
Here are some photos of my new A&A Grunwald. You can see the specs for it over at KOA, but I thought It would be interesting to put up some distal taper measurements - in inches

At Guard - .185
Down 8 inches - .185
Midpoint - .156
24 inches - .156
2 inches from tip - .123

So that's about 34% distal taper, most of that happening in the bottom quarter of the blade.

It does have a flattened diamond section below the fuller, not appropriate for a XIIIb. I'd say this sword is somewhere between a XIIIb and a XVI. Actually, I think that that cross-section improves the sword's functionality, making it a better thruster than a pure XIIIb would be.


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I was fortunate enough to acquire a second hand but in great condition Albion Templar with a dark brown grip. I have a Senlac which is also an Xa but these 2 swords I find are very different. The Templar has great blade presence, is a bit stiffer and seems to have a bit less distal taper than the Senlac which all add up to the Templar being a more authoritative sword. I really like this sword.



I'm glad you found one, Bryan! Looks nice!

Murphy :cool:
T.F. McCraken wrote:
I'm glad you found one, Bryan! Looks nice!

Murphy :cool:


I liked your green gripped one for sure, but this is a really beauty too. I have instantly connected with the Templar, I know its not the most popular of Albion's offerings....I think it has a ton of character..
Have they changed the tip geometry? It looks more acute than the photos on the Albion site.
From Chad Arnow's review (not sure when it was published)
[ Linked Image ]


Mine




To my eyes the tip looks essentially the same. My Templar has a near mirror polish on the blade so its hard to get a matte/satin picture. In my previous pictures I was shooting from a bit of an angle that may explain a pointier looking tip.
I've always loved the Templar. Don't have one, but probably will someday. To my eyes, it and the Crecy are the most archetypal swords in Albion's lineup, not the Knight.

As for the tip, I know I read somewhere on these forums that Albion had indeed slightly changed the Templar over the years. The first version had a slightly more forward PoB and may have been slightly longer in the blade as well. Of course I cannot confirm whether this is actually true, but I know that I did read as much.
Josh

I agree with your sentiment but disagree on the model. For me the Senlac is my Knightly sword, although perhaps I think of it as the prototypical medieval sword. That is more accurate. Medieval sword.

The Templar is very impressive. It feels extremely powerful. It is coming close to supplanting my Senlac as my personal favorite Albion.


Last edited by Bryan Heff on Thu 06 Mar, 2014 2:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
Purchased at the myArmoury Marketplace from Eric Koeler; a Lutel Baselard short sword and an Arms & Armor Alpine Dagger with steel furniture vs. A & A's regular brass.



Have received them both and am more than pleased

Thanks, Eric. Thanks, myArmoury

Jon
J. Hargis wrote:
Purchased at the myArmoury Marketplace from Eric Koeler; a Lutel Baselard short sword and an Arms & Armor Alpine Dagger with steel furniture vs. A & A's regular brass.


Those look great together as a set.
Nathan said:
Quote:
Those look great together as a set.
That was my thinking. I've always liked Baselard / Holbein designs.

Best, Jon
The Lutel is awesome but too " WWII flavor" for my taste.That is why I did not buy it. In my opinion,it would have looked 10x better with the A and A alpine hilt design...but again,just a personal preference.
A British Pattern 1821 Light Cavalry Officer's Sword by Wilkinson. I posted more details about it here.


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I actually just picked up a couple of swords. I added an albion Fiore, Windlass Falchion, and an H/T Norman to my collection. The Falchion was a big surprise. For what I paid ($96 out the door on a weekend weapon deal) I actually didn't expect it to be so nice. defiantly one of their better pieces.
Mike Capanelli wrote:
I actually just picked up a couple of swords. I added an albion Fiore, Windlass Falchion, and an H/T Norman to my collection. The Falchion was a big surprise. For what I paid ($96 out the door on a weekend weapon deal) I actually didn't expect it to be so nice. defiantly one of their better pieces.


I love my HT Norman, it's a really great sword for the price. Hit that pommel and cross with scotch brite pads to lose that gloss, and it looks much better, that's really the swords only negative for me...that goofy unknown glossy metal they make the furniture out of.
Phil D:
Quote:
The Lutel is awesome but too " WWII flavor" for my taste.That is why I did not buy it. In my opinion,it would have looked 10x better with the A and A alpine hilt design...but again,just a personal preference.
I disagree. Besides, Holbein pre-dates WWII by ages. Good design is good design regardless of political baggage. The shapes & curves of the handle and guards are elegant, IMO.

Thanks, Jon

I posted pics of my latest AND very first European sword in the off-topic forum in my 'intro' post. Here it is again:

Smith-forged type XVIIIc German 'civilian' longsword
42.5" overall
33" blade
Differentially tempered and heat treated 1075 steel, sharp

Made in PA, USA by bladesmith Jeremy Eichelberger. All-natural materials, maple hilt core, black willow scabbard core, plant based leather dyes. It is lively and feels great in the hand. It is made with care and upon close inspection has a perfect handmade character to it. You can tell nothing about it involved a CNC or CAD program and I love that aspect of it. I bought a sharp sword as my first Euro sword to help get me excited and inspired to study HEMA. I am hoping to commission another sword with Jeremy at a later date.


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Roger Hooper wrote:
Here are some photos of my new A&A Grunwald. You can see the specs for it over at KOA, but I thought It would be interesting to put up some distal taper measurements - in inches

At Guard - .185
Down 8 inches - .185
Midpoint - .156
24 inches - .156
2 inches from tip - .123

So that's about 34% distal taper, most of that happening in the bottom quarter of the blade.

It does have a flattened diamond section below the fuller, not appropriate for a XIIIb. I'd say this sword is somewhere between a XIIIb and a XVI. Actually, I think that that cross-section improves the sword's functionality, making it a better thruster than a pure XIIIb would be.


You know, I consider myself very blessed to have won what must have been the first of these swords, as it really is a fantastic arming sword. I've not posted anything about it before, as I'm very much a novice swordsman. I used to think it a bit hard to handle with one hand, as I was much weaker when I first recieved the weapon. Once one has a more suitable level of development in the arm, however, it does indeed turn into quite a formidable weapon in both maneuver and cut.

...For times when one is lacking in strength, the longer grip and pommel allow for limited two-handed use. I say limited as one cannot feasibly do a lot of what one would often do with a longsword - the grip is simply too short and crowded for such. Instead, the sword becomes a two-handed arming sword, acting much in the same way as it was originally designed to (but now with two hands!). The asymmetric wheel does not necessarily always fit comfortably into the hand, but it certainly ALWAYS does fit into the hand. One is able to achieve wonderful edge alignment if using two hands on the sword due to the pommel.

That said, I think I will refrain from saying more until I have the ability to competantly do so. :D
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