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D. Austin
Industry Professional



Location: Melbourne, Australia
Joined: 20 Sep 2007

Posts: 208

PostPosted: Wed 12 Nov, 2008 8:25 pm    Post subject: Axe finishes         Reply with quote

Hi folks,

I got excited in the workshop this morning and decided to make myself a long overdue axe. It's still looking quite rough at the moment (see picture below) and I'm in two minds about the finish I should apply to it. Should I leave it rough from the forge or should I polish it?

I guess I'd really like to know if anyone can tell me whether viking axes were necessarily polished or not. The viking period is not my area of expertise and I don't want to create a piece which is unnecessarily historically inaccurate. I still have to grind off the overlap between the socket and bit and alter the shape a little and was considering leaving it with a finish similar to that show in the photo.

Any thoughts, or even better, evidence, would be much appreciated.

Darren.



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Artis Aboltins




PostPosted: Wed 12 Nov, 2008 9:56 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

There is ample evidence of many weapons from that time period that are richly decorated, so it should be quite obvious that they took care of their equipment and would probably not allowed it to appear unkept and uncared for - hence I would say that even if the axes would not have been exactly polished to the mirorlike finish, they probably were not left unfinished or "rough from the hammer" - unfortunately, archaeological examples do not offer us "proof" in this case as those in digs are, of course, at least partially corroded. However, sagas tells us of the great pride warriors took in their weapons - many were given names so those items were valuable.
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M. Eversberg II




Location: California, Maryland, USA
Joined: 07 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Wed 12 Nov, 2008 10:07 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

It's your axe. Which do you prefer?

M.

This space for rent or lease.
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Sean Flynt




Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Joined: 21 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Thu 13 Nov, 2008 8:46 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Maybe a compromise--filed/ground/polished until there are just a few dark pits. Something that demonstrates that this is a well-crafted but still utilitarian piece (like many halberds, for example). Looks like a nice job, to me.
-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Ted Bouck




Location: Northe East Ohio
Joined: 04 Jul 2007

Posts: 20

PostPosted: Thu 13 Nov, 2008 9:43 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Awesome axe Darren,

I'd say do what you prefer. If you want it to be a high status warriors axe, then polish it up, if its for a low status warrior, do less finish work.

A friend and I are definately wanting to make a couple M or L type Norse 2 handed axes. Your axe is very nice and I am hoping you can provide some simple drawings/sketches with a simple step by step on what you did to make the axe, or send us to a site that would provide the same or similar info!!

Thx, Ted
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D. Austin
Industry Professional



Location: Melbourne, Australia
Joined: 20 Sep 2007

Posts: 208

PostPosted: Thu 13 Nov, 2008 2:59 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks for your replies. Artis, you may be right but I guess there is nothing to say that all axes were nicely finished. I might leave this one rough and save the polishing for a nicer shaped axe. I'm probably leaning towards the finish Sean mentioned. It does impart a kind of utilitarian look to the piece.

Ted, if you can forge weld, there's really not a lot involved in making one of these. I didn't add a carbon steel edge to this, which would greatly increase the complexity, but it's fine for a costume piece (and I wouldn't want to get hit with it).

It's basically just two pieces of mild steel cut to the desired shape, one for the socket and one for the bit (blade). The socket piece is curved around to be able to accommodate the haft, and the bit is placed between the ends of it and welded. A bit of grinding and filing brings it to the state shown in the picture. Of course, if forge welding is not an option, it can be welded around the seams but this will obviously not be as strong. If you're interested, I'll take some photos when I make another.

Darren.
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