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Here's the fellow, ca. 1493:


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Here is a new Del Tin sword (at least I've never noticed it before) DT6165 Spada Da Lato - http://www.deltin.net/6165.htm - It looks very much like the sword you have been describing, but with more ornamentation.
Roger Hooper wrote:
Here is a new Del Tin sword (at least I've never noticed it before) DT6165 Spada Da Lato - http://www.deltin.net/6165.htm - It looks very much like the sword you have been describing, but with more ornamentation.


Yeah! That's the spirit! My project is coming along pretty well, as I've been working steadily for a few nights. It's close enough to finished that I know it will balance at around 4 inches below the cross. Feels good so far. :D
I had a "blitz build" this week to see if I could finish the one project that had all of its required parts. This was that project! I don't know what to call this thing, so I won't call it anything but "sword". Sorry for the sub-par photos. Old camera, bad light, sun in my eyes while editing, etc.

Modified Hanwei-Tinker longsword blade, modified Alchem pommel ($13, shippped!) and a heavily modified guard from a Windlass "15th Century Longsword". The result might be "fantasy," but I like it. The poor light I had for these snapshots shows every flaw, so you see the piece at its worst here. Note the casting pit in one arm of the guard. I wish I'd noticed that before I cut off the other ring. :( I'm terrible with finishes, so all of the scratches are entirely my own fault. That's the area where I most need improvement. Still, it's a fun piece. Quick and well balanced, with a very pleasing blade presence. Very easy to stay on-target in a thrust and with enough blade presence to make authoritative cuts. I think it wants a buckler. :)

Stats:
Overall length: 41" Silver's "perfect" length for me, though Silver would not have liked the sword.
Blade length: 35"
Point of Balance: 4.25" below guard
Center of Percussion: 22.75" below guard
Blade width at guard: 2"
Blade width at COP: 1"
Guard width: 8"
Weight: I have only an analog bathroom scale, but that tells me approx. 2.25 lbs.


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I always like the end results of your projects. You could be doing this professionally.
Very inspiring, I'm always surprised at how your projects turn out. I've slowing been building up my parts and blade bin. Gotta get cracking!
Michael B. wrote:
...I'm always surprised at how your projects turn out...


Me too! :lol: At some point in every project I'm holding a pile of scrap metal in my stained and split fingers, acutely aware of how little I know about what I'm doing. So I usually think, "hey, that's actually not too bad" when a project comes together in a reasonably attractive way. There are big obstacles between those moments, and you just have to push through them.
Very nice - simple, but elegant. Transport it back to the early 16th century, and I'm sure it would pass without comment.

The Hanwei/Tinker longsword blade has close to a 60% distal taper, so it must be a very handy sword, depending on how it interacts with that pommel.
Roger Hooper wrote:
The Hanwei/Tinker longsword blade has close to a 60% distal taper, so it must be a very handy sword, depending on how it interacts with that pommel.


My greatest concern was that the pommel (Alchem's 1.75" sphere) would overpower the strongly tapered blade. I removed some weight when I drilled it and created the "foot", but probably added most of that back with the nut. There wasn't any way to be sure until I cut the tang to length, and I was pleased with the result. Frankly, I don't know if I'd like the H-T blade mounted as a longsword. It would certainly be quick, but I suspect it would lack blade presence., It seems better to me as a single-hand blade. The H-T bastard sword blade, on the other hand, is very robust--.5" at its thickest-and I think that will make a nice hand-and-a-half riding sword.
Great job! That's very well done. 16th century all purpose side sword.
Sean, I *really* like the lines and proportions of the final piece. Really quite nice.
The more I look at the pictures, the more I like it. It looks like a lovely sword....when do you cut?
Michael B. wrote:
....when do you cut?


Last week, when the blade shifted while I was holding it. :D Just a scratch. But this blade ships razor sharp--too sharp for me. I rebated it slightly and it's now as sharp as my A&A Town Guard. I'm not much of a test-cutter. I don't think it has much to tell me from an historical perspective.

I realized that it's hard to get a sense of scale from my other photos, so here are a couple more. Although it's only about one inch longer than the A&A Town Guard, they're very different weapons. The A&A is every inch a field sword, while the other seems more a civilian sword. As you can see, there's no problem using the index finger around the blade (until the opposing blade slices it off, of course :( ).


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Sean Flynt wrote:
Here's the fellow, ca. 1493:


Sean,

that Landsknecht in the wood cut is Kunz von den Rosen... I always thought it was a Grossemesser under his arm...
Christopher Treichel wrote:
Sean Flynt wrote:
Here's the fellow, ca. 1493:


Sean,

that Landsknecht in the wood cut is Kunz von den Rosen... I always thought it was a Grossemesser under his arm...


yes, it is a messer. The ring is the point of interest for me.
Ahhhh, the Town Guard Sword, be still my beating heart, and crying bank account. That sword is on my top 3 list. Your creation looks like it belongs next to it though. It's monster long though, very nice for keeping people at bay ; )
It actually looks like it would be a touch too long for my liking. But still very pretty.
When I've worked with sharps in the past, I've taken a piece of heavy gauge wire, stripped it out of it's casing, then laid the edge of the sword or knife blade into the the spot for the wire, then I run a strip of gaffer tape down the whole thing to secure it even more in place. Helps prevent nasty accidents.
Michael B. wrote:

It actually looks like it would be a touch too long for my liking.


I thought about shortening the point by about an inch because it so acute, but I it feels right in the hand. I think you could take this blade back as much as two inches and give it more rounded shoulders without disrupting the profile, but then, it'd probably be better to start with the H-T bastard sword blade in that case--it has that kind of point to begin with and is stiff enough that it doesn't necessarily need the needle point to lead the way.
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