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Sam Gordon Campbell
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 Posted: Wed 28 Aug, 2013 11:35 pm Post subject: |
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Interesting Jonathan. The guard is more like D rather than Sean and Tod's offset O. Geez that leather looks thick, I hope my 4mm stuff will still work... And is that wax residue on it?
I'm going to try to boil (or rather soak and simmer in tumbling temp. water) my stuff, then whilst warm apply a mixture of beeswax and boiled linseed oil. Here's hoping it works...
Member of Australia's Stoccata School of Defence since 2008.
Host of Crash Course HEMA.
Founder of The Van Dieman's Land Stage Gladiators.
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Vincent Le Chevalier
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| Posted: Thu 29 Aug, 2013 6:06 am Post subject: |
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Some information on the modalities, equipment and techniques can be found in this work...
Regards,
--
Vincent
Ensis Sub Caelo
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Jonathan Hopkins
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| Posted: Thu 29 Aug, 2013 11:33 am Post subject: |
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| Sam Gordon Campbell wrote: | Interesting Jonathan. The guard is more like D rather than Sean and Tod's offset O. Geez that leather looks thick, I hope my 4mm stuff will still work... And is that wax residue on it?
I'm going to try to boil (or rather soak and simmer in tumbling temp. water) my stuff, then whilst warm apply a mixture of beeswax and boiled linseed oil. Here's hoping it works... |
It is a hardened leather bowl guard, and not a full basket. I don't see any traces of wax, just some old scuff marks. Most of the weight is in the hilt. The wooden blade is quite light, and as you can see, it transitions from a thick round cross section to a thinner somewhat lenticular cross section.
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Julian Reynolds
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| Posted: Thu 29 Aug, 2013 2:23 pm Post subject: |
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Johnathan, I would say your weapon was more of a gymnasium sabre or training sabre. It doesn't have the defining features of a true Victorian singlestick.
I would strongly recommend following Vincent's link to the treatise by Allanson-Winn and Phillipps-Wolley as a good overview of the use of the singlestick (I have coincidentally just been re-reading my well-thumbed copy this last week).
And the language is, of course, typically full of period flourish: "...safe as a schoolboy with the seat of his trousers full of the dormitory towels." - classic!
Julian
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Lee Pupo
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| Posted: Sun 26 Oct, 2014 12:24 pm Post subject: |
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Leo, that looks great. I am in the process of making a singlestick/broadsword waster myself. I have done some research, but haven't come up with specific numbers in terms of the amount of taper from a 1'' diameter I need to get the proper feel. Does anyone know? Also, if I eschew historical accuracy and just go for a "waster," would it be better to simply add a dowel to my stick and train (mostly in solo forms, using modified shinai for sparring) with the weight that it has? If you can't tell, I've taken up Silver this weekend. 
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Julian Reynolds
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| Posted: Sun 26 Oct, 2014 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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Lee,
Rather than using dowels, you could go for a more traditional option - do you know anyone who makes walking/hiking sticks? Straight ash, or even hazel, for traditional country sticks, properly seasoned, have the perfect weight, profile and strength for singlesticks, and you can even choose and cut your own for a free, endless supply if you live in an area where they grow naturally.....
This is what would have been used for singlestick competitions in Victorian country fairs back in the day.
Julian
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This is a standard topic