[Mark Moore]

Ken Speed-----Yes, in answer to your question about the 'helicopter of death' statement I made,--this has happened. There are quite a few videos on YouTube showing blades failing. These, however, were mostly the result of cheapo rattail tang wallhangers being used to try cutting. One, of an ultra-cheapo, has a guy just swinging it overhead. The blade decides to leave on a mission of its own and leaves the fellow with nothing but hilt parts in his hand! FWIW---This particular video WAS taken to educate on the dangers of trying to use display-only swords. I don't think he skewered the neighbors cat or anything! Also, FWIW,--I don't really think this would happen with this particular blade....but I wouldn't chance it. That's just me, though. .....McM

[Johan Gemvik]

Does anyone here own a Kris cutlerty sword or knife?
Has anyone disassembled the blade to see what the tang looks like on them?

As far as I know they have a solid rep but I don't own one myself. I'm still very tempted to buy one of these, they do look sweet.
Here's a review of another KC sword on SBG, and it's positive and includes light bottle cuttning. http://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/kris-cutlery.html
Hope they do one on this seax too.

BTW. Since the thread has no pics of the actual seax here's a couple from Kriscutlerys website:







The original has a tang very similar to japanese swords, so I'm hoping this one has an almost blade-wide thick tang too. That it has the suspension pin like that could be an indication it might.

[Lewis Ballard]

[Ken Speed]

Mark responded to my question,"...I don't really think this would happen with this particular blade....but I wouldn't chance it. That's just me, though."

OK, I see. It has occurred with other weapons or pseudo-weapons, I was aware of that, but not as far as you know with this one. That's fair and I don't think you're doing anything wrong by warning people that the seax is sold with a protective sheathe and grip not meant to be used in a martial manner. Actually I think the manufacturer would be wise to include a note to that effect in the packaging.

[Ken Speed]

Artis said, "A good catch for those who want an Anglo-saxon style brocken back seax, but, sadly, not really of much use for scandinavian or baltic style..."

Not to highjack the thread but I agree. I have to admit that I'm very puzzled that with all the "Viking" swords, axes, shields and spears that are offered for sale that there doesn't appear to be any "Baltic style: seax for sale other than custom ones. Are we supposed to believe that all the Vikings sailed to Britain to get a seax one way or the other?

How hard can it be to make such a blade? To my eye the blades are shaped in a very similar way to many modern Scandinavian style belt knives.

[Ken Speed]

Johan wrote, "Jean! We need a review of this baby ASAP!"

Yeah Johan, you tell him! I already did!

I don't want to bore you and everyone else by just nodding my head in agreement in print to what you wrote. It's interesting to me that I suggested to another manufacturer that they do something very much like this several years ago.

I'm pretty sure that Kris Cutlery and Kult of Athena are going to make sure that there are enough of these for people to buy, they'd be crazy not to.

[Tyler Jordan]

The advantage of Shira Saya is that it's quite inexpensive, so you can go ahead and re-grip, add a hilt, and re-scabbard the thing without feeling any guilt for throwing out good parts.
I think it's a great idea.

[Mark Moore]

Thanks, Ken....You pretty much took the words outta my mouth. It's fairly obvious to a community such as this , that the seax is sold in a package aimed at the 'do-it-yourself ' crowd. Though, I do agree, they could just say so. I'm glad I brought this lil gem to y'alls attention, though I know it would have come to light eventually. I greatly look forward to the pics, reviews, and all that is ahead for this topic. Can't wait to get mine! ....McM

[Mark Moore]

FWIW----It may not be 'historically correct', but as far as the sheath goes----I dont see a thing wrong with some subtle re-shaping and a leather wrap-over with some cool metal bits thrown in for some 'bling'.....Vikingbling...Is that a new word? ......McM

[Jean Thibodeau]

[Chad Arnow]

Kris Cutlery. The name takes me back. They're not talked about much these days, but used to be a bigger player in the late 90s. Back then, the production market was basically Del Tin (pretty fresh off the MRL/DT split), Windlass (copying some DTs poorly and introducing their own designs with questionable build quality), A&A (the "expensive" option--in the $300-$400 range ), Kris Cutlery, Philippine-made CAS Iberia, and some other lesser stuff. I believe Gus Trim was working on Tinker's short-lived production line, and would soon start his own.

Back then, Kris Cutlery was known for good steel and heat treat, and was thought of as better than the Philippine CASI stuff and Windlass by far. Their L6 claymore was fairly sought after at least partially because Howard Clark's L6 bainite katana were all the rage (despite the fact that Howard's heat treating was the bigger deal than the L6 itself).

For the time, their construction and materials were thought of as being durable. Their designs might not be the most historical (though I like the look of their spatha and the gothic sword they used to offer). My guess is that their materials and heat treat are still good.

[Lewis Ballard]

[Peter Messent]

[Ken Speed]

Peter Messent wrote in response to my complaint about the scarcity of Baltic style seax,


"I'm inclined to agree as well, though I also think that the still-common shape of the typical Scandinavian seax is probably why they are infrequently made. You see a broken-back seax and think 'It's a seax!' whereas people see a scandinavian seax and they just see a nice knife. Googling 'seax' and then 'gotlandic seax' reinforces this, I think - many people think of the seax as being a broken-back seax."

Ummm...yes and no. I agree that the profile of many Scandinavian style belt knives is very much like the profile of earlier North European seax but modern Scandinavian belt knives aren't normally available with very long blades. I can't pay custom prices for a seax but I'd certainly be prepared to pay an equal price for a Kris blade with the right shape that I could "dress" myself.

"I do, however, think it's pretty awesome that this knife has made it into the market - looks well made, well formed and attractive. I'll be getting one, though after I get around to doing a Scandinavian seax I think."

Yes, the interest in this blade is obvious and makes me wonder why people aren't more excited about the seax blade from Albion Arms which is in the same price range although not folded steel construction. I think Albion didn't do a very good job or presenting that blade and I find their photo of it not very appealing. In any case, please let us know how you proceed on your Scandinavian seax.

[Peter Messent]

[Ken Speed]

Peter wrote, "That is true, most modern scandinavian knives are shorter. However, there are larger ones available - leukus are had fairly easily with 10" blades, although perhaps a little broad - I guess that what you consider acceptable varies on whether you want a big seax or a small seax. 8-10" blade would be about ideal for me, so I'm probably going to get a Lauri blade and do some alterations with the grinder (I'm not sure how historical the modern flat scandi grind is?). Kellam has a knife called the Slasher which looks almost ideal for me, blade-wise, if a little short. Of course, everything I've mentioned is quite a bit shorter than the KC seax this thread is about, as I am thinking more along the lines of utility knife that might double as a weapon, rather than just a weapon."

I suppose if one is a Viking reenactor it depends on what particular time period. My understanding is that seax became belt knives more or less and were replaced by other weapons. I was thinking about a Northern European langsax roughly commensurate with the Kris seax blade.

Here in the U.S there are a ton of Scandinavian blades available with or without fittings and I would imagine the same is true across the pond.

[Joe Maccarrone]

Mine arrived today; a very quick assessment:

For the very modest price, I am delighted with the blade!

The handle is affixed solidly -- no issues upon swinging it violently. That said, the wood is very, very soft...

So overall, the piece is as predicted: the blade is absolutely a steal, and the handle needs work. The amount of effort I'm thinking of putting into this: shape the handle to my liking, then bring in some chemical assistance...

Anyone have experience with wood hardeners? I'm thinking once I have the shape I like, I might try a wood hardening solution prior to staining. Would this destabilize the epoxy holding the tang? Any other advice? (I really lack the time, skill, and initiative to try to make an entirely new handle...)

Thanks

[Jean Thibodeau]

[Peter Messent]

Hardening wood can be very challenging without stabilizing, which generally involves using a vacuum chamber to force resins into all the air-pockets; not really worth the hassle in most cases. You can buy stabilized blocks for knife handles, though, which can be very attractive.

Might I suggest curly birch? Makes for quite an attractive handle, with or without dye. This is one I did in curly birch with medium brown leather dye followed by sanding and danish oil:



Personally, I prefer the milder curly birches, but there are very highly figured pieces available, as well - it's very popular for knife handles, so easy to get a hold of.

If you're not worried about regional accuracy, wenge makes a very durable and incredible looking grip.

[Ken Speed]

Joe Maccarrone was kind enough to give us his thoughts on his newly arrived Kris cutlery seax and went on to say,":


"Anyone have experience with wood hardeners? I'm thinking once I have the shape I like, I might try a wood hardening solution prior to staining. Would this destabilize the epoxy holding the tang? Any other advice? (I really lack the time, skill, and initiative to try to make an entirely new handle...)"


Joe, I think many of us here would agree that if you have sufficient time and the ability to shape an existing handle you probably have the time and ability to make a new one. I'd like to add my vote to those who advised you to make yourself a new handle. Plenty of us here can supply advice if you don't know how to proceed. In any case, I hope you have fun customizing your seax in whatever manner you choose.