Posts: 249 Location: Arizona
Fri 08 Apr, 2011 3:32 pm
| Eric Gregersen wrote: |
I just bought one of these but it is on back order. I'm sad to hear these complaints. I too saw that KofA didn't list it as "battle ready" but I just figured that it was because the thing wasn't mounted.
I have emailed the vendor about this discussion. Hopefully they will have something positive to say in their reply. |
I got a very nice reply today. FYI:
Dear Eric,
We have not had any complaints on the Head Only Pole Axes, however, we want to assure you, that if you experience any problems or issues with your item we do have a 30 day return policy. If you do not like your product, you may return it to us within 30 days. You may choose to exchange your item for a different item, the same item, or you may choose to be refunded (minus any shipping charges). The steel on the pole axe is 1/4 inch with 1/8 inch langets and is functional and sharpened. We are unsure why the gentleman in the thread had so many problems with the piece, but he should have contacted either Hanwei directly OR the place of business that he purchased it from. He may have over modified the piece and weakened it, however, we would have no way to validate that.
We hope that this information has been helpful to you Eric. Please let us know if you have additional questions and we will be more than happy to help!
Posts: 87 Location: Charlevoix, MI
Fri 10 Oct, 2014 7:53 am
Sorry to create a "zombie thread", but just how does the thickness of the metal on this pollaxe head compare to originals of the same general type? I just got one of these on EBay, and it was about what I expected for the price as far as the blade and hammer-poll being out of "true", and some rust on the surface, but I wasn't expecting the metal to be quite so...thin. About the thickness of an American quarter-dollar, give or take a little. Seems a bit thin to take any real action, truth be told, depite the claim of being made of "carbon steel". The GDFB halverd head I have is heavier-duty than this, but I have always heard that pollaxes were lighter and faster than halberds anyway.
Posts: 5,981 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Fri 10 Oct, 2014 10:03 am
Your observation is correct, Rich. It's thinner than historically appropriate but I'm not sure you'll find anything better looking for under a few hundred dollars (assuming some time spent with a file and good mounting.)
Posts: 87 Location: Charlevoix, MI
Fri 10 Oct, 2014 11:49 am
I'm assuming it won't stand up to much in the line of backyard cutting, then? That's what i wantd it for in the first place, but I wanted something less expensive than my custom "munition grade" A&A glaive.
Just how thick WERE originals, anyway? I have to say, thus far the top spike seems to be the most "functional" part of the whole thing, though I've no doubt the axe blade could cause some damage. I doubt the hammer head would take much to break it pounding on anything resembling authentic medieval plate armour, though...
Posts: 5,981 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Fri 10 Oct, 2014 12:50 pm
I would consider it a display-only piece. On the other hand, a properly mounted Windlass war hammer should hold up well for some pumpkin smashing.
More photos for comparison:
http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=25111
Posts: 393 Location: New York
Fri 10 Oct, 2014 4:06 pm
The GDFB poleaxe head is pretty good for it's price, but the langet is not very well made and the weld broke off on mine.
Posts: 643 Location: Minnesota, USA
Sun 12 Oct, 2014 9:05 pm
| Edward Lee wrote: |
| The GDFB poleaxe head is pretty good for it's price, but the langet is not very well made and the weld broke off on mine. |
I'll echo what Sean and Edward stated. It makes a great display piece and pumpkin smasher for the price, but beware of the welds. :eek:
Posts: 132 Location: East Tennessee
Thu 24 Sep, 2015 10:51 am
Re: How did you polish & rivet the metal Sean?
| Sean Flynt wrote: |
As you see below, the langet nails are just regular, off-the-shelf bright nails (not galvanized) from Lowe's. I used to cut these off, put them in a bench vise and hammer the heads with the ball of my little hammer (second image below, before sanding the heads to knock off the edges and shine). That's still a good way to give them an authentic forged look but I thought this pollaxe needed something more refined. I cut them off and just quickly beveled the edges on the grinder. That is MUCH faster than hammering the heads, and results in a clean look that isn't too modern-looking. I use JB Weld under the langets and in the nail holes. It is historically correct, by the way, to use one nail in each langet hole (as opposed to putting a nail all the way through and riveting it on the other side). The trick to this is that if you're just cutting off modern nails they can't pass each other in the haft or clinch against the opposite langet as originals-narrow, tapered and sharp--would have done. You have to make sure you cut off the nails just short of halfway through the haft so they don't interfere with each other.
It took me a long time to figure out a good solution to the need for a que/cap/pommel. For the poleaxe, I robbed the square-section cap off of the Windlass hammer shown above. I beveled the edges of that to octagonalize it. There is a more widely available solution, though. I still wanted a cap for the hammer so I bought a threaded pipe cap and ground and filed that to an octagonal section, fitted it, drilled it, riveted it and did the final sanding in-place so I could match the bevels of the haft. I'm proud of that solution. Took me a long time to think of it. It's a secret, though. Don't tell anybody! :D |
Thanks for this detailed advice Sean. After some time has passed, do you know if the langet nails seem to hold up as well rivets would? Just curious to know as I'll soon be tackling this project myself. Secondly, did you eyeball the angles and measurements needed for the pipe cap, or did you somehow mark it before "octagonalizing" it? Thanks!
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