[S. Andrew B.]

[Mart Shearer]

Easy patterns for clothing:
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html

[S. Andrew B.]

Alright, I'm ready to start getting some patterns and fabrics together and I have some more questions I'm hoping you guys can help me answer.

First up with the braies, I came across this other thread
http://forums.taleworlds.com/index.php?topic=31185.0
and I'm wondering, is it necessary for me to make them so large?! Is it a costume sin to make them more...eh proportionate I guess...to my own body type and size? Question 2: must they be white, or is natural linen acceptable?

The shirt is an easy one, that'll be natural linen.

For the chausses, are these linen or wool? I've seen much of both, but in the retail Renaissance costume arena, so I wanted some more informed opinions. Linen would definitely be cooler to wear for long periods of time.

Thanks again guys!

[Mart Shearer]

Braies seem to have been made as a "one size fits all" type of garment until the 15th century. You'll find images of the Crucifixion to be your friend in researching those. There are some good examples shown in this lengthy thread on Armour Archive also, but remember to watch the dates of the sources.
http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB3/viewto...p;t=135302

Most illustrations show white for the braies and shirt, though a few colored examples exist. White is the best choice as it is the most common, and it's easy to make yourself a buffoon by only using too many of the most obscurely seen items.

Hosen/chausses are most commonly wool in Europe, though the military orders like the Templars and Hospitallers were known to issue linen hosen in the Middle East during warm weather. The mid-13th century King's Mirror from Norway calls for "good and loose hose, made of soft canvas and well blacked," (góðar hosur ok linar, görvar af blautu lérepti ok vel svörtuðu,) for use under the mail chausses, so you might want wool for civil dress, and heavier linen or hemp for under armor.

[S. Andrew B.]

[Mikael Ranelius]

[S. Andrew B.]

Thanks for the info Mikael.

If my target period is from 1330 to 1350, that would put me right up to mid century, so I could possibly take on these more snug braies.

The more I look at shirts the more I think I'll just go full sleeve. It's a safer bet.

[Will S]

Remember - for linen to be white it had to have been bleached. While a relatively simple process, it wasn't high on the list of priorities. Go natural linen everywhere you can, even though most reenactors choose white.

Chausses really should be wool, and cut with the twill biased to 45 degrees. This allows them to stretch as much as possible over the knees, while still remaining tight and well fitted. Another classic reenactor mistake is to walk around with badly fitted off-the-shelf hose or chausses - these garments were made to measure. A knight had money, therefore his clothes would fit.

I recommend getting yourself a copy of Sarah Thursfields excellent book on making medieval clothing. Along with timelines for each garment, the patterns and instructions are second to none.

[S. Andrew B.]

Thanks Will,

This book is fantastic so far. Definitely a big help for making my linens, although there isn't any info really in the martial realm.

And I have another question: Padded chausses? I'm seeing these a lot, and even in some of the miniatures I'm using for reference, where you can see vertical quilting lines on the chausses. I'm assuming these were only worn for combat. Does anyone have more information on the time periods, materials, fit, etc.? Seems like a good idea to have some padding on your legs, whether it's between you and maille, plate armor, or just by itself.

[Mart Shearer]

Gamboissed cuisses on the thighs are fairly common. Gamboissed chausses or hosen??? What miniatures or effigies are you seeing these on? I think another interpretation might be in order.

[S. Andrew B.]

[Mart Shearer]

[Mart Shearer]

A fine example of why you should use original material when you can rather than someone else's interpretation of the material. Which gives you a better sense of form and line? Do the surviving colors give you a better indication of the gauntlet construction? Is the bascinet as angular as you might have thought, etc...


vs.

[S. Andrew B.]

Thank you, Mart! Once again I feel like I just learned tons. I was mistaking the gamboissed cuisses for extending all the way down the legs. And I see what you mean about the original piece vs the line drawing.

@Will, have you used this book for pattern-making personally? If you own it, I actually have a question or two that maybe you could shed some light on. I'm finding it to be super helpful. Thanks again for the recommendation.

[S. Andrew B.]

Sorry for the double post, I just wanted to lay down an update. I got all my measurements taken to make my block, I patterned out my shirt and braies, and yesterday I ordered some muslin for pattern testing. It's happening!

[S. Andrew B.]

General question for anyone wearing spaulders: how are you attaching them? Are you pointing them to your aketon/gambeson/arming doublet? Or lacing them to your maille?

I'm reading a study that discusses how no actual examples of spaulders survived, so there is no evidence of how they were actually attached. How accurate is this? I'm linking the article here.

http://www.arador.com/armour/development-of-t...-spaulder/

I'm assuming it wouldn't be too much trouble to go back and add arming points to the aketon/gambeson/arming doublet after it's constructed, to a certain degree, but I'm trying to plan ahead as much as possible.

Thanks all!

[Will S]

I'm glad its useful!

I've made a few things from Sarah's book - braies, hose, shirt and cottes but nothing martial. I got the book to help with civilian dress for a 14th/15th century English archer, which is very basic stuff compared to what you're working on!

An early doublet is my next project...gulp!

[S. Andrew B.]

[Mart Shearer]

Alright, 1330-1350, you have some options. First is to lace the plates through the mail. You can put the arming points on your aketon/doublet, but pulling the points through the mail after you put the mail on can be a PITA. Even moreso if your rings are average sized (9mm external diameter, around 6 mm internal diameter) or smaller. The mail is perfectly capable of holding the arming points in place, and it's easier to put the laces in before you put the haubergeon on.

A little early at 1323:
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8451634m/f224.item

[S. Andrew B.]

Thanks again, Mart. I had that exact concern, of using the arming points through the maille. Sounds like lacing to the maille itself is the way to go. It also keeps an arming point/aiguillette from rubbing on the top of your shoulder. That doesn't sound comfortable.