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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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 Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 6:32 am Post subject: |
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Glad I could help, guys.  It's a nice sword with details that most vendors' pics don't show.
It'd been talked about so much online that I had to take the plunge and try it out.
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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G. Scott H.
Location: Arizona, USA Joined: 22 Feb 2005
Posts: 410
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 9:32 am Post subject: |
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| Chad Arnow wrote: | Glad I could help, guys. It's a nice sword with details that most vendors' pics don't show.
It'd been talked about so much online that I had to take the plunge and try it out. |
Now all you need to do is file off a bit of the peen and unthread the pommel nut, in order to show us what the tang and threads look like.  
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 9:35 am Post subject: |
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| G. Scott H. wrote: | | Now all you need to do is file off a bit of the peen and unthread the pommel nut, in order to show us what the tang and threads look like. |
I probably won't end up doing that. I'm not that curious.
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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G. Scott H.
Location: Arizona, USA Joined: 22 Feb 2005
Posts: 410
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 9:44 am Post subject: |
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| Chad Arnow wrote: | | G. Scott H. wrote: | | Now all you need to do is file off a bit of the peen and unthread the pommel nut, in order to show us what the tang and threads look like. |
I probably won't end up doing that. I'm not that curious. |
I am shocked! You have apparently forgotten those immortal words: "Swords, the final frontier. These are the exploits of Chad Arnow. His lifelong mission: to explore strange new swords, to remove new hilts and new pommel nuts.. To boldly take apart what no man has taken apart before." (Cue Star Trek theme). 
Last edited by G. Scott H. on Tue 29 Mar, 2005 9:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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Bruce Wilson
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 9:50 am Post subject: |
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Keep taking the tablets, Scott!
The late nights starting to get to you are they...?
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 9:52 am Post subject: |
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| G. Scott H. wrote: | | I am shocked! You have apparently forgotten those immortal words: "Swords, the final frontier. These are the exploits of Chad Arnow. His lifelong mission: to explore strange new swords, to remove new hilts and new pommel nuts.. To boldy take apart what no man has taken apart before." (Cue Star Trek theme). |
How did you know I was a Star Trek fan? No, by leaving it in its original condition, I can enhance its resale value should it ever go on the sale block. Not that I plan on selling it, but you never know. I never bought anything for my collection with the intention of selling it, but I've sold off a lot of things.
Plus, knowing my abilities as a handyman, I'd get the thing apart and never be able to get it back together...
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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G. Scott H.
Location: Arizona, USA Joined: 22 Feb 2005
Posts: 410
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 9:54 am Post subject: |
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| Bruce Wilson wrote: | Keep taking the tablets, Scott!
The late nights starting to get to you are they...?
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My prescription ran out yesterday, but no worries: I'll be back on my medication tonight.
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G. Scott H.
Location: Arizona, USA Joined: 22 Feb 2005
Posts: 410
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 9:57 am Post subject: |
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| Chad Arnow wrote: | | G. Scott H. wrote: | | I am shocked! You have apparently forgotten those immortal words: "Swords, the final frontier. These are the exploits of Chad Arnow. His lifelong mission: to explore strange new swords, to remove new hilts and new pommel nuts.. To boldy take apart what no man has taken apart before." (Cue Star Trek theme). |
How did you know I was a Star Trek fan? No, by leaving it in its original condition, I can enhance its resale value should it ever go on the sale block. Not that I plan on selling it, but you never know. I never bought anything for my collection with the intention of selling it, but I've sold off a lot of things.
Plus, knowing my abilities as a handyman, I'd get the thing apart and never be able to get it back together... |
Well, if you ever DO decide to sell it, send me a PM!
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Bruce Wilson
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 10:05 am Post subject: |
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Glad to hear it. Are you sure you aren't allowed anything other than wooden wasters?
Are you still supervised with sharp scissors...?
Anyway, back on topic for a bit:
The more I get to handle this sword, the more surprised I am at how well it seems to flow in and out of the Fiore guards.
The grip seems so much better to hold now the leather has a nice matt finish and, having tried it this afternoon, I think I see what Chad means about gripping just the pommel with my left hand.
I've never really learned properly how to use the hilt (that's coming next!) but the pommel on the Towton certainly gives the impression of being a mace in its own right!
I'm now quite happy that this will be a sound basic training weapon for me before (if...!?) I decide to move on and up to a more expensive sword.
Last edited by Bruce Wilson on Tue 29 Mar, 2005 10:39 am; edited 1 time in total
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G. Scott H.
Location: Arizona, USA Joined: 22 Feb 2005
Posts: 410
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 10:21 am Post subject: |
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It might have been nice if Windlass had elongated the grip and shortened the pommel a bit. Not a big deal, and I guess they were going for a particular historic look, but it could have perphaps made the Towton a bit more comfy for those of us with large hands.
The more I look at the pics in Chad's review, the more I find myself wanting one (I was SO close  ). It really is a beautiful and elegant looking sword.
Bruce, please continue to keep us informed on how it handles in actual practice. Sounds like this might end up being one of those gems hidden in the Windlass collection.
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Bruce Wilson
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 10:38 am Post subject: |
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Will do!
I actually like the loooooooooooong pommel - it's fine as it is and I love it's aesthetics. If anything, the upper part of the grip just needed to be about half an inch to an inch longer. When you look at it, it's blatantly obvious that the riser is that much too close to the cross for even an average "man-sized" hand to fit in there! I guess they'd have to tweak the balance a little to get that to work though - but I doubt it's impossible. Maybe I WILL do that re-grip after all...!
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Nathan Robinson
myArmoury Admin
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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Many of these risers are not intended to separate the two hands on the grip. They're intended to assist in creating a more secure grip. What would the purpose be to separate your two hands? I think your hands could manage to find their own way on the grip without assistance. Risers are functional elements. Study stwords and you'll see them evenly spaced, sitting at the bottom, and sitting at the top of a grip. Often, risers sitting closer to the cross-guard help keep ones hand in position when using a single-handed grip. In this case, it's of no specific use to the second hand.
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Bruce Wilson
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| Posted: Tue 29 Mar, 2005 11:37 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, I see what you mean - it makes sense that the riser would give a little assistance in preventing the hand slipping down the grip and perhaps also act as a tactile marker to confirm hand positioning but in truth my concern (if it's even as significant as that!) is that it's not so much about "separating" the hands as it is about the riser being just a little too close to the cross and therefore creating a raised ridge in slightly the wrong place under the heel of my hand/pinkie that can be a little irritating at times and would be a bit more comfortable if the riser was just a shade further from the cross. Does that make sense?
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Nathan Robinson
myArmoury Admin
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Bruce Wilson
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| Posted: Wed 30 Mar, 2005 4:40 am Post subject: |
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Yes, quite possibly...!
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W. R. Reynolds
Location: Ramona, CA Joined: 07 Dec 2004
Posts: 123
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| Posted: Sat 30 Apr, 2005 11:37 am Post subject: Opinions on MRL's Towton |
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OK, you guys convinced me and I bought one for some of the reasons already expressed in this forum. Besides, I liked the way it looks. I have been working my way through Fiore ala Guy Windsor's book using a Del Tin 2143 and when I tried a few moves using the Towton I found that it was very responsive and verrrry quick!
My real question is that since I intend to use it for LH, what's the best way to get rid of the stamped and inked Windlass logo? I'm sure that somewhere on this site there is information on how to do that.
Maybe there should be a separate section for how to's . Just a thought.
Bill
"No matter who wins the rat race..........they're still a rat."
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Sat 30 Apr, 2005 12:26 pm Post subject: Re: Opinions on MRL's Towton |
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| W. R. Reynolds wrote: |
My real question is that since I intend to use it for LH, what's the best way to get rid of the stamped and inked Windlass logo? I'm sure that somewhere on this site there is information on how to do that.
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I believe it'll go away if you scrub off the lacquer coating. I think it's applied to the blade before the lacquer.
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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G. Scott H.
Location: Arizona, USA Joined: 22 Feb 2005
Posts: 410
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| Posted: Sat 30 Apr, 2005 12:49 pm Post subject: Re: Opinions on MRL's Towton |
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| Chad Arnow wrote: | | W. R. Reynolds wrote: |
My real question is that since I intend to use it for LH, what's the best way to get rid of the stamped and inked Windlass logo? I'm sure that somewhere on this site there is information on how to do that.
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I believe it'll go away if you scrub off the lacquer coating. I think it's applied to the blade before the lacquer. |
Use a vice grip or pliers to remove the pommel nut (use a thick piece of leather or rubber gasket to protect the finish on the nut. Then, when the hilt components have been removed from the blade, use a brush to apply some laquer stripper to both sides of the blade, and let it sit for 20 minutes or so. Next, wipe away any remaining stripper with a rag, and apply more stripper with a piece of 0000 steel wool and rub away the laquer. Finally, wipe away excess stripper, wipe blade with a wet rag (to neutralize stripper) and, when the blade dries, apply a layer of oil. Reassemble the hilt, and you're ready to go. Alternately, you could scrape off just the laquer around the Widlass stamp and the stamp itself with the edge of a penny or nickel, but this will leave an obvious hole in the laquer.
P.S. On two of my Windlass swords, the laquer simply bubbled up and was easily wiped off with a rag after applying the stripper. On the other two, the stripper appeared merely to soften up the laquer, which then had to be buffed away with steel wool. Your results may vary. Total cash outlay for this project: can of stripper-$8, chemical-resistant gloves-$4, safety goggles-$4, small pachage of 0000 steel wool-$3, small brush (for applying stripper)-$1. So, you're looking at around $20, if you don't already have one or more of these products on hand. Some people have reported simply using oil (I assume it's the 3-in-1 type) and steel wool. I tried this with disappointing results. Again, your results may vary.
Last edited by G. Scott H. on Sat 30 Apr, 2005 1:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Sat 30 Apr, 2005 12:58 pm Post subject: Re: Opinions on MRL's Towton |
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| G. Scott H. wrote: | | Use a vice grip or pliers to remove the pommel nut (use a thick piece of leather or rubber gasket to protect the finish on the nut. Then, when the hilt components have been removed from the blade, use a brush to apply some laquer stripper to both sides of the blade, and let it sit for 20 minutes or so. |
You can remove lacquer from a sword without disassembling it. I've removed lacquer from a blade without disturbing what's on the hilt. Plus, the pommel nut may not come off depending on how well it's peened.
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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G. Scott H.
Location: Arizona, USA Joined: 22 Feb 2005
Posts: 410
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| Posted: Sat 30 Apr, 2005 1:07 pm Post subject: Re: Opinions on MRL's Towton |
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| Chad Arnow wrote: | | G. Scott H. wrote: | | Use a vice grip or pliers to remove the pommel nut (use a thick piece of leather or rubber gasket to protect the finish on the nut. Then, when the hilt components have been removed from the blade, use a brush to apply some laquer stripper to both sides of the blade, and let it sit for 20 minutes or so. |
You can remove lacquer from a sword without disassembling it. I've removed lacquer from a blade without disturbing what's on the hilt. Plus, the pommel nut may not come off depending on how well it's peened. |
True, however, removing the hilt components makes the whole process much easier. Check out my thread on the Shrewsbury http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=3891 concerning the pommel nut issue.
BTW: On that link I gave you, scroll down near the end to see my comments on the pommel nut.
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