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Jared Smith




Location: Tennessee
Joined: 10 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: Mon 22 Mar, 2010 1:51 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I like the "crab knife" on the far right too. I would have guessed it to be a leather working, or similar craft related tool. If so, the "palm swell" shape of the handle looks like it would be very good for control of the cut.
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Bjorn Hagstrom




Location: Höör, Skane
Joined: 25 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: Mon 22 Mar, 2010 2:20 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jared Smith wrote:
I like the "crab knife" on the far right too. I would have guessed it to be a leather working, or similar craft related tool. If so, the "palm swell" shape of the handle looks like it would be very good for control of the cut.


It is a nice little blade indeed. 35mm length, 8mm wide and about 2mm thick. I use it for woodcarving mostly. Deep set in the palm and with the thumb on the blade I can make it work almost like a swivel-knife which is handy when trying to do viking style ornamentation. For leather I actually prefer even thinner blades than this!

There is nothing quite as sad as a one man conga-line...
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Marton Pap




Location: Hungary
Joined: 16 Jan 2006

Posts: 47

PostPosted: Mon 22 Mar, 2010 4:00 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Last summer, I have finished my first sharp sword. Here are some pics:


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Jared Smith




Location: Tennessee
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PostPosted: Fri 26 Mar, 2010 6:55 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Marton, I love the "rain guard" flap, and this style of sword! The scabbard looks like it turned out pretty nice as well.
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Jared Smith




Location: Tennessee
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PostPosted: Fri 26 Mar, 2010 7:01 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I have started studying, and am thinking of apprenticing for small knifes. I was present for a fair amount of work (grinding, layout, heat treat, etc.) by Bob Levine, who made the knifes below from a pattern welded twist billet I have worked on since the holidays. (The certificate is cropped, but the alloys are 1095 and 8670 matched to achieve average carbon content near 0.85%. A lot was ground off at two stages, so I doubt much was lost due to scaling in what remained.) The knives took the heat treat really well, and cut thick leather with surprising ease! The first is my gift to a friend for his birthday. The small folder is really a nice small "gentlemen sized" folder. It took many more times as much work to "keep it in a small package" and finish it well compared to the fixed blade knife. The ivory on the folder was harvested by Bob's mentor in 1936. The ivory was cross cut to show the grain. Everything is obviously nice in plain light with naked eye from a distance of a meter, but all seems very hard to photograph. (I increasingly appreciate the photography done on this site as I fail to achieve similar quality at home.)


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Jared Smith




Location: Tennessee
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PostPosted: Sat 17 Apr, 2010 2:54 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

This is coarse (80 layer) pattern welded blade I forged Easter weekend. I had Bob Levine finish grind it and make the holster. The sheath is patterned after the style Texas rangers carried. Sharpened blade section is about 5" (13 cm) long.


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Carl W.




Location: usa
Joined: 07 Aug 2008

Posts: 183

PostPosted: Sun 18 Apr, 2010 9:21 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jared,

Well done. Very. Hard to choose best but your "Stag & Blisters" including simple sheath is superb. Your time is well spent. Thank you for sharing.

Carl
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Jared Smith




Location: Tennessee
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PostPosted: Sun 18 Apr, 2010 4:24 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Carl W. wrote:
Jared,

Well done. Very. Hard to choose best but your "Stag & Blisters" including simple sheath is superb
Carl


Thank you sincerely for the compliments. I am not sure which is the "stag and blisters", but I would guess it is the first "ladder patterned?" These cost me a lot as I pay the final cutler a "fair" price. In the mean time, I am learning how to work the raw materials. Eventually, I will opt to buy a heat treating oven and a belt grinder, when I judge the materials as worthy.

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Maurizio D'Angelo




Location: Italy
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PostPosted: Sun 18 Apr, 2010 5:38 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jared,
your good results I also encourage me to try to forge a knife.
I love these things.

Ciao
Maurizio
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A. Spanjer




Location: USA
Joined: 26 Apr 2009

Posts: 242

PostPosted: Sun 18 Apr, 2010 6:59 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

That axe is great!

And I absolutely LOVE the pocket knife!

Na sir 's na seachain an cath.
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Carl W.




Location: usa
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Posts: 183

PostPosted: Sun 18 Apr, 2010 8:32 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jared, maybe I got mixed up reading your posts but "Stag & Blisters" was intended as a tongue-in-cheek name for this one:

Jared Smith wrote:
I finally got the scale materials (stag) and the knife completed. I opted for a high polish instead of high etch contrast. Anyhow, it has a good feel to it and hope it will be something my son appreciates one day when it becomes his.


due to your prior... "(Came home with blisters all over from where the hot flux sizzled, went inside gloves and shoes while working.....etc. I just had to grimace and bear it since I did not want to ruin it after having spent so much time on a billet.)"

The 9" w/certificate & TX ranger are great too - hard to choose best!

(Btw big thanks to Martin for starting this topic; the simple battleknife (2nd pic) in his first post is a favorite.)
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Jared Smith




Location: Tennessee
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PostPosted: Mon 19 Apr, 2010 1:24 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Carl W. wrote:
Jared, maybe I got mixed up reading your posts but "Stag & Blisters" was intended as a tongue-in-cheek name for this one:

due to your prior... "(Came home with blisters all over from where the hot flux sizzled, went inside gloves and shoes while working.....etc. I just had to grimace and bear it since I did not want to ruin it after having spent so much time on a billet.)"


Good pun. I have since acquired a leather apron. I still get an occasional hole in the shirt and flesh though, since I have to stand at an angle to use the power hammer.

The Texan knife was an experiment to see what would happen if one minimizes grinding. It was actually twisted about 10 times during intermediate stages of the folding. Simply forging the twists flat back into the billet "smudges" the layers, and does not achieve the legendary "serpent in the sword" effect to the same degree as grinding after twisting. Some evidence of the twisting operations are better seen on the reverse side that I did not post before.

In comparison, the 9" twist knife with wood handles was twisted about 16 times and had material ground away evenly from both sides. Although it is only one simple experiment, the historical implications to me are that pattern welded swords of Migration era most likely had some stock removal involved to elicit the sort of surviving written comments that they did.



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Bjorn Hagstrom




Location: Höör, Skane
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PostPosted: Wed 28 Apr, 2010 1:00 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sheath added to a knife from previous post, and one more made also with sheath.
My first time doing leather carving. It was fun. I will have to pattern all my leatherwork from now on!



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Jared Smith




Location: Tennessee
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PostPosted: Sun 06 Jun, 2010 7:58 am    Post subject: first simple composite         Reply with quote

I had some surprises and fun yesterday at the blacksmithy. I have been working on the most simple possible composite, two billets of opposed twist. I wanted to try welding two billets together, with a long term goal of replicating the classic center section of migration era pattern welded sword cores. I should have realized that it was going to grow into a 20" long by 2" wide by 1/4" thick piece of blade stock since it started out near 2 lbs mass. But, I did not think of that and got into quite a bit of new territory such as welding in sections, and handling a very large floppy blade sized piece of metal near the end of flattening it out. Anyhow, attached are some pictures of the stages of billets, and a preliminary rough ground etch of the blade which should be heat treated by the end of today.


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Last edited by Jared Smith on Mon 07 Jun, 2010 2:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jorge Actis




Location: Brasil
Joined: 06 Jun 2010

Posts: 1

PostPosted: Sun 06 Jun, 2010 4:10 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Naythan Goron wrote:
nice sword Allen
i'm working on one myself

you can see the full page on how its made and the stats here
http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=16959


Naythan Goron'm from Brazil do not speak your language I'm translating the text rsssssssss wish that you please pass me the measurements of thickness, width and size of this type of sword templars'm thankful because I am starting a project if possible by email my email actis.jorge @ gmail.com
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Ruel A. Macaraeg





Joined: 25 Aug 2003

Posts: 306

PostPosted: Sun 06 Jun, 2010 10:53 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I cut a tang into the base of this stingray spine cast and fit it into a hilt to make this Malay poison dagger, 19-20thc. Cf. Gimlette 1971:126-7, Ghiringhelli 2007:34.

http://ForensicFashion.com/1831PattaniRebel.html

http://ForensicFashion.com/CostumeStudies.html
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J. Dawes
Industry Professional



Location: Sheffield/Nottingham Midlands
Joined: 07 Jun 2010

Posts: 27

PostPosted: Tue 08 Jun, 2010 2:06 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

When i first started out i used to visit the local steel works in my area, they are usually really appreciative of other local metal working enthusiasts and gave me a really good deal in buying there off cuts off them.
But old junk yards and scrap heaps, hunting leaf springs off land rovers is always going to be the best steel!
Or industrial bandsaw blades that the saw mills were throwing out after snapping them. today i keep them for spring catches on my work.
Though no matter what steel it is its pracitcly useless without a proffesional temper to it.
For swords i go for about rockwell C 43- 45 and knives i go rockwell C 50 - 55.

A little secret of mine i used to use high speed (tensile steel) about 3 mm to make my own knives with when i was about 11. it doesnt need tempering its keeps a shaving sharp edge but it is very brittle. Jus keeping a 3 inch blade shaped like a mellowed out kukri was my dream knife. it lasted easily 4 years until i lost it in the woods. i was gutted as it was my first 'useful' knife that worked.


Josef.
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Dave Leppo




Location: Dover, PA, USA
Joined: 24 Feb 2010

Posts: 38

PostPosted: Tue 08 Jun, 2010 4:17 am    Post subject: a few         Reply with quote

I'm a lurker here, and not a combatant, but I dabble in bladesmithing.
I mostly post such work @ professor Fogg's site:

http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showt...l=frankish seax&fromsearch=1

http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=16993

-Dave
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Ozsváth Árpád-István




Location: Romania
Joined: 27 Apr 2008

Posts: 131

PostPosted: Tue 24 Aug, 2010 12:42 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Here's my "Raven":

Total length 97 cm
Blade length 80 cm
Grip length 11,5 cm
Blade with at base 44 mm
Blade thickness 7 mm tapering to 3.5 mm
CoG 12 cm from guard
CoP 54 cm from guaRD
Weight 1,2 kg

It needs some finishing touches, but I couldn't wait...



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Richard B. Price




Location: Providence, RI
Joined: 06 Feb 2011
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Posts: 41

PostPosted: Sun 20 Feb, 2011 7:06 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

HI all thought I'd throw my two coppers in.


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my take on a keris. [ Download ]

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the first knife I ever completed [ Download ]

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a really big flanged mace i am working on. [ Download ]

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just a chainmail whip [ Download ]

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tsuba and habaki of the katana I did [ Download ]

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the kissaki [ Download ]

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the whole thing [ Download ]

"We shall never know lasting peace until the last king has been strangled with the entrails of the last priest."
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